1990 Nissan 200SX S13 – Project Profile

Turbocharger? Check. Rear-wheel-drive? Check. Sleek retro body? Check. Pop-up headlights? Check. What’s not to like about the Nissan 200SX? Especially an early S13 model with a manual gearbox such as this one. A proper driver’s car the 200SX is well-balanced, if a little tail-happy, but that’s no surprise really considering its 170-ish bhp, turbocharged, four cylinder engine. It was always a handsome devil too and those long, sweeping lines look as good today as when it rolled out of the factory. It’s a true JDM hero.

Making its UK debut in 1989 the 200SX was based on Nissan’s S Platform (hence the S13 name) which basically means rear-wheel-drive sports car and it was a return to form for the Japanese brand, capturing some of the magic they produced with the legendary 240Z. With a similar 0-60mph time as the Porsche 944, but substantially cheaper, the car was an instant hit but dwindling numbers combined with the now added ‘drift tax’ means that second hand prices have risen considerably, especially for unmolested cars.

Named the 180SX in its native Japan and released a year earlier the car was squarely aimed at the more enthusiastic driver and was incredibly well-received, taking the title of Japanese Car of the Year in 1988. It featured more engine and trim options than the version that was re-badged as the 200SX and offered in the UK. Often credited with kicking off the coupe wars of the early 90s the 200SX was quick, lightweight, and with almost perfect 50/50 weight distribution, a joy to drive. Thanks to a reliable and immensely tune-able engine, rear-wheel-drive and responsive steering it was, and still is, the weapon of choice for the drift set and the car’s innate ability to go sideways on a whim makes it perfect for skidding. And skidding will always be cool.

What is it? 

This first-gen 1990 200SX retains its original CA18DET 1.8-litre, turbocharged, in-line four-cylinder engine which is mated to a five-speed manual gearbox. It’s the ‘facelift’ model which means it comes with seven-spoke alloy wheels, larger disc brakes and a limited slip differential, among various aesthetic updates compared to the non-facelift cars. It appears to be all original and has been dry-stored for the past fifteen years but it does need a bit of work and the latest MOT report appears a little daunting at first glance but we’ll get to that.

It’s a running and driving, unmolested example, the likes of which are becoming increasingly hard to come by. For that reason alone we think it’s worth taking on and it’s clear what needs to be done to bring this JDM classic back to its fabled best.

Why is it a project? 

At first glance the car looks to be in great shape. The bodywork and paint appear to have stood the test of time well and it hasn’t been battered to death at the track. The last fifteen years it has spent in a garage have obviously protected it from the elements and the owner claims that it starts and drives well. Great, so what is it doing here? Well, take a closer look and its shortcomings become all too apparent. A recent MOT failure shows exactly what the problem areas are and the car will require some welding work, which isn’t that big of a deal if carried out professionally. Areas that require attention include the front crossmember, front floor rail and inner rear sill. Other things to address include worn suspension bushes and ball joints, rear brake problems (including corroded lines and binding issues) and a driver’s door that doesn’t open from the outside making it a Dukes of Hazard affair to get in.

Obviously the welding is a priority but a full inspection of the underside of the car would need to be carried out to determine the full extent of the work required. The car may run and drive but due to the recent storage and lack of use a thorough scrutiny of all perishable items would also be pertinent but the current owner has replaced some parts already, including the inlet manifold, associated pipework and thermostat. A recent service has been carried out and the car has been treated to new filters, fluids and plugs. If the mechanicals are indeed in good order then see to the chassis repair work, replace all of the worn suspension parts, upgrading to polyurethane where possible, and overhaul the brakes. That should pretty much cover the major issues, leaving you to concentrate on tarting it up a bit and injecting some life back into the old girl.

Five things to look for: 

1) Rust
This particular car obviously has some corrosion issues underneath, as listed above, so get underneath to determine the full extent of the problem. The bodywork doesn’t appear to have suffered although how much can you really tell from photographs? Give it a thorough going over, concentrating particularly on the rear wheel wells and inside the boot. Check for signs of accident damage such as poorly aligned panels and overspray – these cars can be a handful in the wet for the uninitiated. Panels are relatively easy to swap should you need to replace any and are even interchangeable between models.

2) Engine
130,000 miles for a CA18DET isn’t a lot as long as it’s been looked after. However, although robust, it does require a new timing belt every 35,000 miles or so and if it snaps you’re in a world of hurt so if there is no evidence of any replacements we would advise changing it as a matter of urgency. Carry out the usual checks for head gasket failure too – if the oil filler looks like a jar of Hellman’s, walk away. Turbos can fail so inspect the exhaust for blue smoke which would indicate worn seals. Boost comes on around 2,800rpm so take it for a drive and make sure you feel that surge of power as the turbo spools up. Check that the oil has been changed regularly using good quality oil.

3) Drivetrain
Synchros can go on the S13 manual box so scrutinise every gear, shifting up and down and keep your ear to the ground for any unwanted noises. Check if the transmission fluid has been replaced at any point – a sure sign that the car has been cared for – and also the diff oil. These cars are prone to being thrashed so test the clutch for any slip by pulling away in third gear.

4) Suspension
We already know that a bunch of the ball joints and bushes are shot so give the whole setup a good look to see what else may be required. At 130,000 miles suspension components will be getting a bit long in the tooth, evidenced by a sagging rear end, leaking front struts, uneven tyre wear and instability when driving, amongst other things. This particular car doesn’t look like your typical drift weapon but that’s not to say it hasn’t been abused.

5) History
The advert makes no mention of any history, apart from the lack of timing belt records so take this into account. A comprehensive history file is crucial when it comes to these cars but a lack of any service details could be a bargaining chip, if you’re feeling brave.

What should you do with it? 

Go to the DVLA website, find the latest MOT record for the car and then systematically go through the work required and check off each item as and when completed. Once finished you’ll be safe in the knowledge that this 200SX is mechanically sound. After that it’s entirely up to you but if it were us we would keep it bone stock and treat it to a full valet and paint correction. Intact, unmodified examples are becoming extremely rare and we think this Japanese legend deserves to be rescued and kept standard, which will pay dividends in the long run. We urge you to celebrate its originality – don’t let it fall into the hands of an Initial-D fanboy who will more than likely cover it in stickers and then wrap it around a tree.

To own this proper driver’s car, here’s where you’ll find a Nissan 200SX for sale.